Getting the right fit for a suit can be just as important as the material chosen, color, tie pairing, etc. Suit fitting through custom measurements is the best route to ensure you get a fit that you’re both comfortable with and also suits the occasion you’re going to as well.
The Ideal Fit for a Suit
While comfort should be the primary objective, a few observations to keep in mind when checking how a suit fits are:
- Jacket length in correspondence to pants and belt
- Very minimal break just above the shoes
- Shirt cuffs and sleeves
- Shoulders flattening out evenly
Getting your jacket length fitted correctly
If you’re trying on the jacket in person, there are a few things you can make a checklist of when looking in the mirror. Without getting into the nitty-gritty of chest size and measurements for the right fit, the first thing to make note of is how the shoulders look both comfort-wise and in evenness. If they feel uncomfortable and restrain movement heavily, then the jacket is too small and isn’t a good fit. There, of course, will be a bit of restriction in movement with any suit given how they’re fitted, but overly restrictive is easy to spot in your own judgment. If the shoulders are too widely set and don’t feel tight, looseness can be mended in tailoring, but it’s best to try to find a jacket as close to the desired comfort level as attainable. When the shoulders sit evenly and feel comfortable, the most difficult measurement to find is done. Now, getting the sleeves fitted correctly is the next step.
Sleeve length will depend on if your style calls for cuffs being exposed a half-inch or more. These are tougher to find in an untailored, basic suit because of how much variation there can be in arm length versus the average height of a wearer of the suit. The choice on this aspect of the jacket all comes down to personal preference, and doesn’t have a huge impact on how the suit is seen depending on the color choice of the dress shirt. When walking, cuffs have the tendency to shift down and be exposed more, which is why about half an inch or less of exposure is ideal when in a stable position. This will come down to getting the arm lengths correct, which again is mostly a comfortability choice.
Pairings to each suit will require some styling choices, especially with ties and belts. Belts should be thin and match the shoe pairing, while the tie should be thin and match your lapel length. Now, when choosing cufflinks and other smaller accessories to pair with your suit, it’s important to balance out the look to not feel overly accessorized. Ties should not go past the belt, and should instead sit just above when in a standing position.
Pants shouldn’t pull up and expose socks when in a seated position. This can be avoided by aiming for a tight break around the ankles between shoes and pants. These can be tricky, so getting socks high enough will be crucial to sustaining that look.
Fit for the occasion
Getting the fit right is the first step to a great suit, but also fitting the occasion as well. Pure black should be avoided unless in a wedding or funeral setting, with a graphite or granite color substituting. Lighter color pairings for accessories are ideal for a spring or summer occasion, perhaps a work event, quinceanera, or anniversary. With all of these recommended standards met when getting a tailored suit or simply off the rack, you should be dressed for success regardless.